How To Repair 3pt Lift Arm End

Recently I lost the retainer for my lift arm ball, and had to replace the lift arm end.  Stupid bolt fell out somewhere up in the field I guess.

Anyways……..First thing is to measure the length of the repair part, and mark your lift arm for the install.

Cut the lift arm at the proper point.  Place the repair part up against the good lift arm, and record how far you must cut the bad arm.  Then get the torch 😀

Next, tack it up to the arm.

In this case, I had to offset the repair part to align the ball to its proper position.  I HATE THESE REPAIR ENDS.  They’re usually too small for the actual tractor, but you have to do what you have to do.  I can’t get these particular parts for a 53yr old tractor.

Next, do a root pass to burn in.  Notice how I’ve increased, and ground the bevel that the replacement part came with.  This allows me to get into the joint with a small 3/32 7018 rod.I’m running pretty hot for such a small rod……..about 100-110amps.  I really don’t care what the bead looks like, but I do care that there’s proper penetration at the root of the joint.Because I had some irregularities on the face of the arm, I chose to grind the weld back to the root to create a nice even surface for the next fill pass.The pass curves to the left in order to fill a curve in the arm where the clevis had attached.  It’s a matter of preference……you can sequence your welds to suit your choice, just make sure they’re hot.  In this case I’m running 1/8 7018 at about 130amps.  Toasty enough to burn into the 1″ thick lift arm without risking a cold weld.The next pass runs up against the first fill pass.  In retrospect, I wish I had filled the curved area first, then run these two passes.  Hindsight is 20/20 🙂  Now I’m faced with having to blend in the unfilled areas with the horizontal welds.  Also note the bevel on the piece of plate on top of the arm.  You should always bevel something of this nature so that you have full profile penetration.The pass weld sequence is numbered to show the process of filling in all the areas to create a unified weldment.  Don’t be afraid to do this stuff in more than the “accepted” number of passes.  The success of your job depends on a solid weld.  Lot of stress in this area.Because I can’t stand the looks of that extra bolster, the top is trimmed, and ground to a nicer profile.  Artsy fartsy ya know 🙂If you did everything right, it should be even.You can test this immediately after you’ve done your initial tacking if you have any doubts as to proper fitup.

The Upshot Of The Whole Deal

This kind of repair is a last resort……..when it’s impossible to find replacement parts that ACTUALLY FIT YOUR TRACTOR.

Think before you weld 🙂  I really didn’t stop to plan my weld sequence, and placement, at the get go.  This made for extra work to finish it out, and blend it all together.

Anyhow………hope this helps.

“Any day above ground is a good day”

 

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